
Larb
Isaan's good-luck dish — 'larb' echoes the Thai word for fortune, and no northeastern celebration happens without it.
Where it comes from
Larb came down the Mekong from Laos into Isaan and became the dish of weddings, new years and homecomings — its name sounds like laap, fortune, so eating it is halfway to a blessing. Warm minced meat is tossed with lime, fish sauce, chili flakes, mint and khao khua: raw rice toasted in a dry pan and pounded, the smoky crunch that makes larb larb. Tradition gives the head of the family the honor of mixing. Ours is mixed in the kitchen — the luck transfers anyway.
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Not sure how to judge a plate like this? Read our field guide to the best Thai food in Orange County — five signs of a real Thai kitchen, and what to order once you’re in one.