Rad Na

Where it comes from

Rad na — roughly, 'poured over' — arrived with Teochew immigrants from China's Chaoshan coast, whose shophouses taught Bangkok the pleasure of gravy. The wide noodles are charred first for smokiness, then blanketed in a sauce built on fermented soybean, thickened to silk and studded with Chinese broccoli. It is Thailand's great rainy-day dish: the one you order when dinner should feel like a warm blanket.