The gentle one at the table — silky parcels in clean broth, a gift from Bangkok's Chinatown.
$13
Where it comes from
Wontons sailed to Siam with Cantonese and Teochew immigrants whose noodle shops made Bangkok's Yaowarat one of the great eating streets of Asia — the name in Cantonese famously suggests 'swallowing clouds.' Thai cooks kept the broth clear and honest, added bean sprouts and green onion, and made kiao nam the dish a Thai family orders for the kids, the grandparents, and anyone who needs looking after.
Not sure how to judge a plate like this? Read our field guide to the best Thai food in Orange County — five signs of a real Thai kitchen, and what to order once you’re in one.
